Before the year 2000 is at a close Neuser will have opened Prince Edward County’s first estate grape winery.
Although he’s one of a handful of growers in the county who have planted grapes, the sixty-something Neuser is taking a big step into uncharted territory. His remarkably ambitious plan comes with no guarantees - everyone, including Neuser, is aware that one serious winter could destroy the whole thing.
But Neuser remains undaunted; taking chances is, apparently, part of the fun. The winery is a good example of that. Construction of it officially started months ago and yet it was only in mid-June that Neuser got word the LCBO would allow a retail outlet as part of the operation. "That’s the chance I took," he says, "I started building before anything was done. Why should we in Prince Edward County be treated any differently if we can prove we make quality products.?"
Like everything else on the property Neuser shares with is partner Rita Kaimins, the winery, even in mid-construction, is striking. It sits to the right of County Road 8 in Waupoos, where acres of orchards are part of the scenery and well-kept homes overlooking Lake Ontario turn into apple outlets every spring.
Neuser is accustomed to guiding tours through the unfinished structure; the winery is big news. People, says Kaimins, are suddenly dropping in all the time, wanting to see this place they’ve only heard about through the media.
It’s a massive building with high ceilings and large, cavernous rooms. On the first level, Neuser explains, the manufacturing, processing and bottling will take place. Using a spiral staircase, customers can come down from the retail outlet and view the process. Still dazzled by the reality of the whole thing, Neuser comments, "when this is finished it’s going to be absolutely gorgeous."
Further down toward the water a huge gazebo is also under construction. Neuser has a few thoughts he’s not sharing on just what the uses will be. But he points out the wet bar already built and the tables which will eventually be installed. "A place for guests of the future resort," says Neuser, gesturing to an empty stretch of land where yet another building will soon take shape.
Down here, where Neuser is assembling a Mecca for tourists, are dozens of healthy-looking vines making up one of the vineyards. Since starting with the grapes in 1993, he says it’s been a matter of "trial and error.
"We’ve continuously added different varieties over the years to find out what works, get some experience," says Neuser, adding that, so far, most varieties seem to grow well. The list includes Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Vidal and Johannesburg Riesling.
While climate obviously has a lot to do with the success of a vineyard, Neuser says what’s in the soil is also crucial. He illustrates his point by comparing grapes to apples.
"An apple takes five minerals out of the ground. In the case of a grape, though, if there are 100 minerals in the ground it will pick up everything.
"So a grape grown in Niagara or a grape grown here in Prince Edward County, same grape, same root stock but the grape grown here could be completely different. Because of our micro-climate we are all equal - but not with the soil."
Neuser says he’s been making wine since 1997 when the first crop of grapes was ready for harvesting. He says that while some growers are happy to pick after two years, he believes the growing process should be left at least another year. "In my opinion there should be a minimum of three years to give the plants the strength to establish themselves."
Calling results to date "excellent," Neuser nonetheless doesn’t dismiss the yearly threat of winter. He says grape growers in the county can claim to have a good product and can no doubt show their crops are healthy. But in the end, says Neuser, the only real gauge of how well the region is doing will be time. Growers, he says, need to prepare themselves for the worst while expecting the best.
"If you have the time, spend the time and effort to give these grapes the utmost protection in the wintertime, other than a few days a year when it can get extremely cold, I think we’re fine.
"In my opinion we expect we will have a winter when we probably will experience frost damage. I talk everyday to the Great Spirit that that won’t happen."
Ten or 15 years down the road Neuser says others looking at Prince Edward County as a possible wine region, others like Vintners Quality Alliance and the Wine Council of Ontario, will hopefully be able to give the county top marks in all categories, including weather.
In the meantime, Neuser puts great stock by an incident, which happened years, ago when he first found and "fell in love" with the Waupoos property. He says he asked a European man if he thought grapes could grow in the region. "I wanted to know, what did he think," Neuser recalls. He said to me, ‘can you grow sweet cherries?’ I said well, I don’t know. So I put the sweet cherries in all those years ago. If you look you’ll see they’re still doing well today."
From the Archives:
News, July 2000
